Stewart Warner Needs to Live Again

This is an earlier model set. It is a TRF (Tuned Radio Frequency) set. (3) 24A RF stages. 27 Detector. 27 1st Audio. (2) 45 Push-Pull Audio Output. 80 Rectifier. Also has what appears to be a line regulator in that perforated can behind the 80 tube. 

Could possibly have AVC (Automatic Volume Control) but I doubt it. An AVC equipped set would use 35/51 tubes in the RF stages (also any IF stages). The early AC tubes would most likely be marked 224A, 227, 245, and 280 respectively. 

The filter capacitors should be checked in the power supply first. They are probably housed in that long card board box under the chassis. Modern film capacitors (caps) are or much smaller and could be used to replace them. Also, small electrolytic capacitors could be used as well. You could restuff the box for appearance or cut out the originals and install the new ones in convenient spots. Any caps that have B+ (DC voltages of 100-250 Volts) on them such as bypasses to the chassis (B-) should be checked and replaced as well. The resistors should be checked as they could have changed value significantly or even opened up (electrically speaking). Tube socket contacts and tube pins may need some scraping and cleaning to restore good contact. That short broken wire from the tuning condenser (tuning capacitor) to its adjoining tube (24A) grid cap will need replacing and resoldering. 

It would be a good idea to do some continuity testing of all the power transformer and choke windings in the power supply, all of the RF tuning coils, and any RF chokes that may be present in the circuit. You can do this with a DMM (Digital Multi-Meter). You can use the audible continuity test on  your DMM for low resistance windings. The resistance of the various windings are sometimes marked on the schematic diagram. Some, like the power transformer's HV winding will require you to use one of the higher Ohms ranges on your DMM to get a reading. Any open windings is trouble and could make a replacement necessary. Some new replacements are available along with period NOS parts and old spare parts chassis. Well, that is the general idea of what to do. 

When you are ready for testing bring the line voltage up slowly with a Variac (you will have to shop for one or borrow one) having plugged the new line cord you installed into the Variac first. Or you can use the line dropping light bulb technique Cliff recommended. Use a 60W or 100W light bulb (incandesant bulb not CFL or LED) inserted in one side of the power cord. This can be a temporary setup for testing. If the bulb lights up brightly you have a short in there some where. Also look for smoke coming out of the set as you power it up-another sign of a short circuit in it. Some restorers like to add a cartridge fuse (3AG or AGC type) to the radio to protect the power transformer and the rest of the set in case of some future failure and resulting short circuit in it. It can be added under the chassis in series with one the transformers primary leads to go either to the power cord or on-off switch. A 1, 1 1/2, or 2 Amp fuse could be used.  

P.S. Period correct parts such as new cloth line cords, knobs and cloth wiring are available from suppliers like Radio Daze, AES, Play Things of the Past, etc.. Also check ebay for parts, supplies, knobs, and tubes.

The missing tube is marked on the tube socket. Replace the capacitors. Test the tubes especially for shorts before you turn it on.
Use a Dim Bulb tester in series with the power cord. To prevent any damage to the Transformer.

I just ran across your post again, while looking for another post.
 Dave at Justradios in Canada can supply schematics for many Canadian sets.
 I got one from him years back for a Canadian GE.
Reasonable price too
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Cliff Jones wrote:

You need to get the schematic, because it lists all the parts and their values.
You can find it at nostalgia air. The chassis is common to several models. 
How many tube sockets does it have?
The model you mentioned shows 11. In the schematic that is. 
But on your picture I only see 9?
Look for the chassis number and see if it is 105.

The radio was made in Canada, is a superheterodyne, the I.F. IS 177.5 KHz.
The tubes are 2-57, 2-56, 3-58, 1-27, 2-47, 1-80.
It has a push-pull audio. 
It was made in 1932-34

Cleaning is the best step first.
Then get the tools, and then the schematic.

 

That's great!  I really appreciate your input.

You need to get the schematic, because it lists all the parts and their values.
You can find it at nostalgia air. The chassis is common to several models. 
How many tube sockets does it have?
The model you mentioned shows 11. In the schematic that is. 
But on your picture I only see 9?
Look for the chassis number and see if it is 105.

The radio was made in Canada, is a superheterodyne, the I.F. IS 177.5 KHz.
The tubes are 2-57, 2-56, 3-58, 1-27, 2-47, 1-80.
It has a push-pull audio. 
It was made in 1932-34

Cleaning is the best step first.
Then get the tools, and then the schematic.

My wife bought a Stewart Warner 58 Highboy over 30 years ago before we were married.  We have no idea when it stopped working, because it wasn't working when she bought it.  Over the years we tried to find someone to repair it, but it's been difficult.  Since I retired, I thought I might learn how to fix it.  I picked up a book called " Antique Radio Restoration Guide" by David Johnson.  After reading a few chapters, I removed the chassis from the back of the radio and did some preliminary cleaning with a vacuum cleaner and paint brush.  I found a number of issues that need to be addressed.  The power cord was so badly frayed I ended up cutting it off.  There is a vacuum tube missing.  A fine wire was broken from the oscillator going to a condenser.  There are quite a few items on my check list, but if I address them one at a time hopefully it will live again.  Please look at the photos and help me decide how to proceed.  Any and all suggestions are welcome.  Thanks in advance.
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