If you have been repairing or building for any length of time with tubes, it is 99% likely you will find a job where the tube socket pin has broken off.
I used to grouse and then replace the entire socket, which could be a long and nasty job.
Well, unless you are dealing with the Septal series of sockets, 4,5,6, & 7 pin large old WAFER types, Phenolic wafer miniature, and most loctal; there is a easy repair solution.
There are a couple of ways to accomplish this repair.
Please keep in mind this works on octal, some 4, 5, 6, 7, (Primarily Bakelite or ceramic types) loctal, Non-wafer 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, (Yes, there IS an 11 pin socket. primarily used for relays & interconnects), and 12 pin types.
When scrapping out old B&W & Color TV sets and some radios, quite often there are unused pins on many of the sockets. Most can be removed from the socket with a pair of needle nose pliers and a pick.
Soldered on ones can be removed, but it's a really fussy job.
Note:There are at least 3 different styles of socket pins on Octals alone. Some are NOT interchangeable. At least 2 are.
Flatten the retaining "bump" on the bottom of the pin and it will come out easily.
Then simply remove the broken pin from the socket and insert the replacement pin, solder the wires to it and you are done.
Some pins get surface "gunk" on them so I use a pencil type typewriter eraser to clean them up well before fluxing & soldering to them. Easiest done before putting the pin back into the socket under repair.
I also keep a pile of broken NOS and used sockets and pins around for just this thing.
The pins from the wafer type Septal series that are in broken sockets can be saved also.
I have made extension cables for servicing radios and TV sets from many different sizes of them. (I remember having to make up special ones for the old Philco B&W 2 piece chassis. What a PITA nightmare!).
I can't say I originated this idea, but I have never heard or read of anyone else doing this.
I just got lazy after my 5th or 6th entire socket replacement. My replacement time factor went from about an hour + down to (typically) 10-15 minutes from start to finish.
I DO NOT recommend this method if the socket has any sign of carbon arcing or tracking on it. Replacement is the only cure. Also the ceramic types can get conductive carbon tracks on them too, especially in transmitters, or if the tube melted down, caught fire, etc.