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First off you need to use a schematic.
Download this manual.
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]Please only use reply, do not start another topic. I combined all 3 of your topics into one.
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Ok, now look at the schematic, it shows where each of those colored wires go.
1. The red wire connects between R21 and R 22. That is 60ufd (+ side)
2. The yellow wires connect to R23 ( one yellow to one side of that resistor, 40ufd (+ side) and the other yellow wire (another 40ufd capacitor + side) connects to the opposite side of R23.
3. The black wire goes to ( B - ) so all the negative capacitor terminals are tied to the same spot that the original black wire was tied to. ( be sure to use some insulation on each wire to prevent shorts.)
That schematic shows the capacitor just above the bottom of the printed notes.
So if you replace that capacitor the replacements should have each + connection going to the same place that the colored wires went to.
I just noticed it's a 4 unit capacitor, the last being 20ufd. There should be a total of 5 wires not 4. Unless that was a replacement cap and didn't use the smallest. I will go back to the schematics to see.
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]The 20ufd 25volt cap ( C 31 d ) has a blue ( + ) lead, it connects to 50C5 final audio amp tube, anode and it's negative also goes to the B-.
So here's what you need. All electrolytic's.
1 60ufd 200-250volt
2 40ufd 200-250volts
1 20ufd 25-50volt
You can use the original voltages but I would suggest the higher voltages that I listed.
Hope this helps.
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