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ANTIQUE-RADIO-LAB

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Topics tagged under 6 on ANTIQUE-RADIO-LAB I_folderTopic: Connector ID by Pictures
FrankB

Replies: 5
Views: 1188

Search in: Connectors   Topics tagged under 6 on ANTIQUE-RADIO-LAB I_icon_minipostSubject: Connector ID by Pictures    Topics tagged under 6 on ANTIQUE-RADIO-LAB I_icon_minitimeFebruary 14th 2020, 11:29 pm
I would like to add that the "el cheepo"  hand crimpers you get from many suppliers for dirt cheap often do a poor job of crimping.
Amp, Molex, and Waldom made good non-compound hand crimpers. I bought a compound crimper and the full die set from Philmore and have been quite satisfied with it.
 There are other companies that make really good compound crimp tools. I also have a mil spec/aircraft grade with several dies that was my fiance's before she died. It was in the several hundred dollar range originally.
 The crimper in the above picture is of the compound type. 
Please be aware that there are different crimper types for many different types of crimp connectors also.
 There is no such thing I have ever found that is a "One does it all" type, unless you get one of the replaceable die type crimpers, and even then, it may not do all types.

Amp has a special crimper for DB style connector pins, another for Cannon types, and yet (at least) a 3rd type cor spade and ring connectors. I have at least 6-8 different types, and still find myself lacking at times. Also the large battery lug crimpers for automotive use are a beast unto them selves. The "small" one I have has handles over 2' long and will do [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] battery cables only. Cost? AARGH!!! Close to 100.00 USD. They also make stand up die type crimpers that are 2-3 piece and are bench mounted.  Some are even hydraulic operated. You don't even want to contemplate one of those unless you have VERY deep pockets. Then we get into the power line cable splice crimpers.......... $$$ [You must be [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] and [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] to see this image.]

 Pretty much the same is true for coax cable crimpers. The $2.99 ones are really worthless unless you are using the old, way outdated separate small ring RG 59 and 56 connectors. The newer coax connectors for RG 59 & 56 need a compound crimper for the ferrel, and some cable companies even use a special different style for their systems specific RG56  connectors.
 They also make some for Heliax, RG11, and other commercial cables. Again $$$$.

So it's good to decide which type of connectors you are going to use, then buy a good quality tool for those types. An "el cheapo" may do for a very few crimps, but if you are intending to use it much, please buy a good one. It will pay for itself over the long run.

 Personally, I have worn out 4-5 of the good compound crimpers for RG 56 and 59 coax, before I bought the replaceable die jaw type. And yes, I was in a commercial repair business situation. I needed to make up on the average from 1-6 TV & satellite coax cables a day. 

The cheapo compound crimpers start to wear quickly and they just don't do a good job. Some even from the start.
Topics tagged under 6 on ANTIQUE-RADIO-LAB I_folderTopic: Tube Reactivation: Receiving & Transmitting
chas

Replies: 13
Views: 479

Search in: ElectronTubes   Topics tagged under 6 on ANTIQUE-RADIO-LAB I_icon_minipostSubject: Tube Reactivation: Receiving & Transmitting    Topics tagged under 6 on ANTIQUE-RADIO-LAB I_icon_minitimeOctober 15th 2019, 5:14 pm
FrankB wrote:
One article I read decades ago
instructed you to place the tube in an oven and "cook it" at a certain temp for a specified number of hours, after rejuv.

O.T.

My Dad told me he would put [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] cells and "B" battery blocks in the oven and get a couple more weeks out of them...

I have placed Zenith transoceanic chassis, the was literally dead to the world in the oven, after removing all the plastic and rubber parts...

Some end wax flowed out of the paper caps but firing up the T.O. it came to life with tremendous sensitivity.

Still have that radio, OEM caps and it still works:)

Overall, for the radio restorer there is a LOT that can be done with an oven, mast at temperatures below 212 and some jobs at 275 to 300F...

In modern SMD boards, heating the board facilitates removing of devices when they are soldered to a heat-sinking ground plane. In re-work heating the board actives solder paste to solder the new devices to the pads.

Heat can be used to flatten a distorted hard rubber radio panel. Also heat is used to melt bees wax and drive out moisture in coils using a vacuum chamber (simple really)...

After refurbishing a radio, I thought that wiping down the flat (foil embossed) loop antenna would be a good idea.  NOT! the water soaked into the Masonite hardboard and "killed" the antenna "Q". I agonized over this and thought the antenna/back was ruined...

Then it occurred to me to place the loop antenna back into a warm oven for a couple of hours. Yeppers! It worked, radio returned to normal operation... [You must be [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] and [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] to see this image.] 

Chas
Topics tagged under 6 on ANTIQUE-RADIO-LAB I_folderTopic: Can't remove solder from chassis
Guest

Replies: 9
Views: 751

Search in: Radios -Tube type   Topics tagged under 6 on ANTIQUE-RADIO-LAB I_icon_minipostSubject: Can't remove solder from chassis    Topics tagged under 6 on ANTIQUE-RADIO-LAB I_icon_minitimeAugust 28th 2017, 8:05 am
Vulcan Electric "Mercury" {#}6{/#} Soldering Iron 150 Watt

Chas, do you think this one would work, "Vulcan "Mercury" {#}6{/#} Soldering Iron 150 watt"?  See photo.


Thanks,

Mike


Topics tagged under 6 on ANTIQUE-RADIO-LAB S-l16012
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