Electrolytics and that funny plastic plate

It was mentioned to me by a person new at repair that they had removed the phenolic capacitor mounting plate and replaced it with the metal type because " It was stronger and didn't break."
 "When I turned the set on it blew smoke and parts in the cabinet. It must have been a bad capacitor".

Well children, NEVER REPLACE A PHENOLIC CAPACITOR MOUNTING PLATE WITH A METAL ONE! 
Write this on the chalkboard 100 times, then 100 more.

The phenolic/ Bakelite plate is an INSULATING plate for the capacitor.
Always replace it with the same. Grounding the shell of a filter capacitor that is supposed to be above ground is a disaster.

 This holds true for the FP types- the 3 & 4 ground lug cans, or the old round wet electrolytics. They often used a cardboard type insulating plate  with a lip on it to keep the capacitor insulated from the chassis when you installed the mounting nut. 

 The isolated metal can is often above ground potential, and you can get a nasty shock. (Think AC/DC TV set with a voltage doubler or tripler type power supply).

 A special spot is reserved in the infernal reaches for the idiot techs who replace a metal filter cap on an isolated mounting plate and don't reinstall the cardboard insulating cover back on it too. 

 I got a very nasty shock from one TV where this had failed to be done. :twisted: :evil: 

 If you see a filter cap covered with tape- don't peel it off unless you are replacing it. The tech didn't have an insulating cover for the capacitor and tried to insulate it with electrical tape.

You can carefully untwist the capacitor grounding lugs on an FP type can capacitor. 
Yes, there is a special tool for installation & removal of the lugs too.
 I have seen ones made by both GC Electronics and General Electric..
 It is nothing more than a piece of hollow metal tubing with a handle on one end and the other flattened out just enough as to let a lug fit into it. 
You then twist the tool and , in theory, the lug will then be able to pull straight out of the hole. 

In theory... In reality, depending on how much torque the tech that installed it had, there are 2 little "prongs" on the ground tab that go offset when it is really twisted down.

 I found the easiest way to remove the tabs is to really clean the solder off of them, then use the tool, or facsimile, after first taking a good pair of needle nose pliers and straightening out the "prongs".

 Some folks just twist the prongs off with pliers too, but you do have a very good chance of breaking the insulating plate doing it this way.

Back in the "Good old Days" an electrolytic came in a box with both a metal and phenolic mounting plate with it, and depending on the mfgr., the can might even come with an insulating sleeve on it. They also sold the sleeves separately too.

 I know of at least one retailer who sells the 'lytics and then charges you extra for the mounting plate.