B&K Television Analyst 1077B dead as a hammer

Many Ham's have modded the B&K to use for SSTV too.

That's good to see.  That'll be a key to getting your big baby up and running!

The good news is that I got the Analyzer working.  I'd read where they are not THAT complicated, usually don't have much wrong with them if they don't work, and that the caps in the power supply NEVER go bad.  Okay, then.....

My Analyzer has bargain-basement quality caps in it.  I found the 80uf at 350 volt section of the main filter cap to be extremely leaky.shorted.  I kluged a couple 47uf caps in parallel to see if it would work and it does.  The tube filaments and the bias supply is hot in "standby" then B+ comes up when you move the switch to "on".  The other ten electrolytics in the instrument should be changed before I use it much.  

I have a little Admiral Playmate set, circa 1963 that I had never really used.  I knew it would come on without letting the magic smoke out, so I used it to test the tester.  I got a really funky display on the TV, too tall at the top, squished at the bottom, off center to the left with a big goose egg in the left of the display.  Either I have a busted tester or a busted TV.  Or I have successfully diagnosed serious vertical issues in my little Admiral TV.  It is full of those awful white Goodall caps, so it's a fair bet the tester is okay.

BTW, the CRT in the Analyzer does light up purple.  My understanding is the owner's manual has material in it where you can make new transparencies.  I made test leads, and those seem to have worked just fine.  These are dandy devices.  If you mess with TV you need one, particularly if you are a rookie at TV repair like I am.

Thanks, Cliff.  I guess I'll have to get more into test equipment repair and maintenance.  Like me, all the test equipment i have is showing its age.......

Other than this I have no further information

Electron Tube Corp. 1200 E. Mermaid Avenue
Philadelphia 18, Penn., USA

This was gleaned from a book called

International Radio tube Encyclopedia by B.B. Babani
 Link to google


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also listed in
ELECTRONIC ENGINEERING DIRECTORY
December 1945

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I don't believe I'm familiar with the Electronic Tube Corporation.  Did they primarily make tubes for test equipment, or maybe for B&K?

I believe I found the problem, shorted filter capacitors, C8A to C8D.  Two 40uf, an 80uf all at 350 volts and a 50uf at 50 volts.  Closer inspection revealed something had been leaking out of the Mallory can cap.  This thing has a total of 11 electrolytic capacitors that should be changed before going any further.  I may also replace the two rectifier diodes just to be on the safe side.  They test sorta okay, so better safe than sorry.  Date codes on the tubes are the 23rd week of 1969.  There are a couple tubes in the sweep section that are dated later, one in 1972, the other 1974.  There are two versions of this instrument, one with IC's, one without.  Mine is without.  The schematic I have is for the other version.  I got my old VTVM out to check this with.  The little meter I had wasn't accurate enough.  I need to find some flexible wire to make test leads with and find a set of transparencies.  I have a lead on the transparencies.  I'm learning a lot and having fun, and that's what it's all about.  I don't know if it will work after I get the caps changed, but the caps need to be replaced before I can go any further.  The sticker with the model number is long gone, so I'll have to guesstimate some things.  The EIA manufacturer's code on the tubes is 169.  I don't have my documentation here.  Anybody got an idea who "169" is?

For info on ESR follow this link

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I don't own an ESR meter of any kind.  I was taught to use an ohmmeter.  I also use Shango's audio method of checking electrolytic caps.  I use a transistor radio and an old car speaker, but the result is the same, if not as elegant.

I printed the schematic for this thing and have been digging around in the power supply.  My audio setup for checking caps is at home, so I'm using an analog ohmmeter.  This instrument has a 3-amp fuse in the power supply that's melted.  I have done the normal checks that I would do on anything else, and  have thus far found no reason for the popped fuse.  I'll keep digging to see if I can find anything wrong.  I'm not 100% on checking solid state rectifiers.  My understanding is they should have resistance one way and be open if I reverse the leads.  I'm not even going to consider transistors and that until I find why the fuse blew.

The CRT should light with a blank white raster.

ESR= Equivalent Series Resistance. Basically, you can test electrolytics with an ESR meter.
 Please refer to postings here on ESR meters and types.

The neon test light is basically just a NE2 neon bulb in a holder. The RF generated by the HOT will cause it to light if it is properly working.

As for the manual:
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Be sure to check "English" as language. Some if it will translate.

Elektrotanya has manuals no one else has. A fantastic resource.

Perhaps I misspoke about the purple glow from the CRT.  It does not light like the traditional CRT with an image on it.  You can tell its lit, but it looks different from the normal CRT.  

I haven't tried B&K.  I never thought of it.  That's a good idea that I'll try.  Thanks.

My understanding is slides can be made.  That might be an option if I can't round up a set.  There is a neon light that works as a high voltage probe/indicator that I need as well.  This device is part of the equipment furnished with a new instrument.  I'm not sure it's an immediate need, though.

I don't "ESR".  Don't know what that is, and certainly couldn't do it.  I use a combination (modified) of Shango's audio amplifier test on filter caps, and then guess on the  rest.  The small value caps I'll just change as a matter of course.  I want to get an answer as to the fuse blowing situation first.  Thanks for your input.

Greg,
I have a couple of the 1076 & 77's.
 Finding one with all the slides is the really hard part. They are in reality a flying spot scanner(and signal & alignment generator),  and were often modded to use for SSTV by the ham's.

I might have a manual on one, but have you tried writing B&K?  They always came thru for me in the past.  No idea where my manuals are right now. Stuff in the storage got moved, and I couldn't keep track of it.


Yes, they are awesome of you repair old TV sets. (I used one until I got a good, used Sencore VA42, which had more features I needed, especially the solid state drive signals, besides the tube ones.)

If you plan on just repairing tube sets, they are great.

If you get a purple glow in the CRT, it has lost it's vacuum.  No CRT should ever have a purple glow to it. 

Check the filter caps for AC ripple. By this time, I'd replace them and ESR the rest.

Cliff, that's where I got the schematic that I have.  They have a user manual, I just noticed, but it's like 100 pages.  

Vintage is dead to everybody now.  There are several inquiries out as to what the situation is, but no response yet that I know of.

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You have to register Below for this site (which I recommend)
I understand that its a Sevice Manual, however I didnt download it to see because theres a limit to downloads a day  

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Greg, the HiFi site is dead to me anyway when I usually do my corresponding.  Unless they lose their "games " tag, they remain blocked:

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Shango repaired his on a video, which I have seen.  I'm not disappointed that it doesn't work, per se.  I fully expected to have to do SOMETHING to a device over 50 years old.  My understanding is these things are never totally useless, even if they are totally dead.  There are parts that I or someone else may need sometime.  I'm not to the point of giving up just yet.  I have a tentative plan.  I just don't want to chase my tail.

Rex, you may already know that "vintagehifi" is dead.  Nobody is communicating why.  We don't know if it's permanent.  That would be a shame.  There is a lot of information on that forum.

Greg, I'm sorry your test set is requiring TLC.  Having no experience with the unit, I did what I usually do, I went to bing with the name of the device to see what comes up.  It looks like there are a few Youtube repair/restoration videos that might have some Ideas for you.

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Like the title says, I recently got one of these things to fix the TV in my Stereo Theater.  It was given to me by a fellow hobbyist, so I don't have a lot into it.  It is totally dead, complete with blown fuse in the power supply.  I have a generic schematic.  I understand there are "early" and "late" versions of the 1077B.  I have not determined which version mine is, but I have enough information that I should be able to troubleshoot the power supply.  It utilizes a power transformer, which is simply an isolation transformer.  It appears to be a 1:1 transformer.  The tube filaments are in series.  The three secondaries on the power transformer are for the B+ supply, the tube filaments and a transistorized bias supply.  I don't have any test leads for it, only one transparency, and no user manual.  So, I have a ways to go and lots to learn before I fix any TV sets with this thing.

From what I've read, these things are pretty slick.  I've been told that most TV repair shops "in the day" bought one of these, but they were seldom used to advantage.  I understand they are held in higher regard with old TV hobbyists now than they were in their heyday.  I don't have any generators appropriate for troubleshooting TV chassis, and this instrument supplies all the signals necessary to replicate those found in TV sets.  

What I have determined at this point is that the Analyzer has a standby-power switch.  Three positions:  off, standby, and on.  In standby, only the bias supply and tube filaments are hot.  In "on" you get B+ to the chassis.  Seems to me the best avenue of investigation would be to replace the blown fuse, pull a tube, put the power switch in "standy" then plug it in.  If the fuse holds, I'd say the bias supply, its transistor Q3 are okay.  Then unplug it, replace the tube, plug it in again.  If the fuse holds, the tube filaments and bias supply are okay.  Them move the switch to "on."  If the fuse holds, leave it on for a while and see if the CRT lights.  I should get a purple glow, if I understand it right.  It's possible somebody was using the instrument incorrectly and popped the fuse.  If the fuse blows when I turn it to "on", I need to troubleshoot the B+ supply like most anything else.  I understand that blown power fuses are not all that uncommon, not hard to troubleshoot and repair.  I've been advised to recap the entire instrument after I determine what's popping the fuse in the power supply.

If any of you have ideas how to proceed, I'd appreciate your input.

On a side note, it's been awhile since I've posted here. Mez, I look forward to hearing for you if you get a minute.  This has been a strange winter for me.  I look forward to spending more time here in the future if you'll have me.  Best to you all.......Greg