Tube testers

First topic message reminder :

This is just to get this topic started. I have 3 tube testers, a Jackson 636, and a couple of B&Ks.
One being a 747 and the other a 707.
------------------------
I just replaced a resistor in the Jackson that was way out of tolerance and now I can do a line adjust.
-----------------------
I would like to make a tube socket strip for the newer B&Ks to test older 4 and 5 pin tube types on. Oh well another project. Has anyone done this?
-----------------
On another note there are a number of Web sites that do have free Manual downloads for old tube testers.
If you come across those drop me a PM and possibly add them to our Links.

Also: I installed a neon into the test socket...not sure how 'smart' that is i.e. how critical that bulb is.
The bulb was sold as a replacement for that. 
I have been using the Fluke but if it is more advisable I still have several chrono Tripplets that work fine if they are better suited....pls let me know.
Tom

Pertains to the two  #55's....I have read several sources that recommend soldering the lamps ...and they all state soldering bases and tips??. the bases are easily soldered in place, wire to connection tab that holds the base.  That said the tip? unless you drill through the socket you can't do it. Drilling through the socket is Pandoras box. I can understand soldering a wire from lamp base to the 'solder tab' as the fit in the sockets are less that optimum. 
Your: "Also R5 needs to be set with a VTVM into a tube socket 1pins 1&2 per users manual. (2.5 Va.c.)"....my mistake ...my 1.5 should have read 2.5.
I have ordered an nos pair of 16 Ohmer's. Should have them in a few days. 
Tom

The 16 ohm resistor is critical to the bridge circuit for correct balance. 

Also R5 needs to be set with a VTVM into a tube socket 1pins 1&2 per users manual. (2.5 Va.c.)
There is only measurement that requires a VTVM, IT IS SHOWN AS A DOT in the legend notes on the bottom of the 1st-schematic. All other voltages are measured with a 20Kohm on D.C. And 5Kohms for A.C. (Somewhat confusing, I'd say)

The only one then using a VTVM IS the 2.5 Volts A.C. located in the bridge lamp area. But the schematic shows 1.5 V.a.c. At the junction of M6 and R-21. .???? Confusion reigns!

Are you saying the lamp sockets have bad solder joints for the 2 #55 lamps, or the lamps themselves?
Or the same question for the neon lamps?

It appears that I did not paste the whole message....sorry....I am trying to do a Putnick-calibration on the 707. I was able to get the 'Short Test' ok; and the 'Grid emission' test is ok; but I am stopped at the 'Signal Voltage' test.....I need 1.5 VAC but can only get 1.08 +- VAC.
1. Using a Fluke
2. Manual: a tube reference manual in paper. An op manual on computer file
3. I have found that the 16 ohm resistor on the lamp fed by R5 is testing at 25 ohms
4. I do have the lamp bases soldered but am having a bit of difficulty understanding how to solder the tips and still insert the bulbs into their holders w/o grounding the connection.
5. After re-re-doing the lamp and resistor area I'm going to re-clean the switch packs, perform another check and if necessary I'll try to isolate the switch pack components and feeds

Do you have the Manual?
What reading are you expecting from the tube you want to test?

Have you used the testing and calibration procedures that Bob Putnak provides on tubesound.com?

Your leaving out details, is this for an ECC803 (12AX7) Or an 803?, two different tubes. 

Is this the tube you are testing, or one in the tube tester itself?

Have you adjusted R-29?

What type of equipment are you using to measure the voltage?
The voltmeter should be either a VTVM, or a Dvm.

It should have an input impedance of 10 Megohms, otherwise if you use a standard analog meter such as a Simpson 260 it will load the circuit down and you will never get the correct voltage reading.

I have replaced the caps, tubes and am able to get the Short Test and Grid Emission Tests done fine. I have also re-cleaned Pot-R18 and have since disassembled and cleaned it. I have re-soldered the previous joints and tightened the ground nut for the ground bracket.
I have also swapped the 803 for an Elderly brand SS803, all with no effect. The cleanings took the signal from about 1.04 to approx 1.09.
Any direction on this will be appreciated.

So what is in the center socket on the right side of the tester?
You can wire the nine pin in with Pin # to Pin # without to much of a problem. All sockets are wired in Parallel. Good Luck.

Where your nine pin socket is I have a five pin socket that I have never seen before. I will put a nine pin in its place.

The Jackson 115 does have a 9 pin socket.
look on the top left side of the tester.
It is the small socket in the center.

[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

Thank you for the information. This tester has nine pin tubes listed on the roll chart but has no nine pin socket. I have two blanked holes but they are the size of an octal tube socket. I have an Eico 625 that has a ninepin socket that size but I have never seen them for sale .where can I get one and is it hard to wire it in the tester?

R-134----- (40,000 ohms)-used only in TV-7/ B   AND TV-7/D
R135-------(45 OHMS) used in TV-7A/U SER.# 1201 THRUGH 9492
R-135 DESIGNATED AS R-137 IN TV-B/U AND TV-7D/U
R-137 (45 ohms)used only in TV-B/U AND TV-7D/U
R-139 (350 ohm variable) only used in TV-7D/U
R-140 (2,700 ohm) only used in TV-7D/U
R-141 (47,000 ohm) only used in TV-7D/U
CR-101 (copper oxide rectifier-meter) TV-7/U mounted either on E-106 or S110
all other models mounted on S110
S109 all models are six sections , except TV-7D/U which has 8 sections
V102--5Y3GT USED in TV-7/U -- when replacing V102  use a 5Y3WGTA
TV-7A/U (SER. # 1 THROUGH 9492 USES  5Y3WGT)--when replacing V102  use a 5Y3WGTA
TV-7B/U AND TV-7D/U (USE 5Y3WGTA)

Component----------- | TV-7/U (               TV-7A/U                        ) TV-7B/U       | TV-7D/U



-----------------------------------(Ser. # 1-1200 )( Ser # 1201-9492)



* **********************************************************************************



R113 ------------------ 41 ohms--- (  41 ohms) -------( 1,000 ohms)-------1,000 ohms------ 1,000 ohms



---------------------------fixed-------(- variable)---------( variable)---------- variable----------- variable



* **********************************************************************************



R114------------------- 280 ohms--- (280 ohms)------ (280 ohms)-------- 350 ohms-------- 350 ohms



----------------------------fixed--------(variable)------- (variable)---------- variable----------- variable



* **********************************************************************************



R115-------------------- 41 ohms--- (41 ohms)-------(1,000 ohms)-------1,000 ohms------ 1,000 ohms



-----------------------------fixed------(variable)--------( variable)---------- variable---------- variable



* **********************************************************************************



R117- R123- R124- R125



---------------------------MOUNTED- (MOUNTED)-----( MOUNTED)--------MOUNTED-------- MOUNTED



------------------------------ON--------(- ON)-----------(--ON)--------------ON----------------ON



-----------------------------E106-------(-E106)---------(-E106)-------------RESISTOR--------RESISTOR



---------------------------------------------------------------------------------MOUNTING-------MOUNTING



---------------------------------------------------------------------------------BOARD------------BOARD



* **********************************************************************************



R124----------------------- 245 kohms--( 245 Kohms)-- (245 Kohms)-------- 225 Kohms--------- 225 Kohms



* **********************************************************************************



R130----------------------- 8,500 ohms--( 8,500ohms)-- (9,500ohms)------- 9,500ohms-------- 9,500ohms



-------------------------------no c tap------( no c tap)-----( c tap used)-------- c tap used--------- c tap used

* **********************************************************************************



R131 & R132 --------------- not used-----( 10,000 to) ----(10,000 to)-------- not used------------- not used



(* determined in production) -------------(20,000 ohms*)-( 20,000 ohms*) **********************************************************************************







R133------------------------- not used------ (680 ohms)------( not used)-------- not used------------ not used

************************************************************************************



R134 (45 OHMS)------------ not used------ (not used)---------(used)------------ designated---------- designated



------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------as R135-------------- as R135

Internal differences also are a few parasitic beads.

I can't remember if I calibrated mine or not. If I did, it was like 6 years back.
I know I replaced any caps in it, and my TV 10, IIRC.

I have been looking for Info on the meter for specifications and replacement, and ran across some related info I though I would consolidate Here for your info.

There were a couple of meter Manufactures, Phastron, Roller-Smith Company of Bethelehm, PA.  Both the full-scale sensitivity (200 microamps) and resistance (2365 ohms) were printed on the meter scale.  With this new information it is clear that the TV-7 meter resistance is 2365 ohms, not 2360 ohms as stated in the article.  This difference of less than 1/4% is of no practical consequence.

I was talking to FrankB yesterday about some tubes he found that seem to be rare, so we got into tube tester anomilies, and I mentioned I had run across this article. He was interested in it so for everyone, I decided to look for it, and here it is.


This was found in a Hickok I-177 tester Manual and it may be wise to follow the advice.

TB 11-2627-2
TUBE TEST DATA FOR USE WITH TUBE TESTERS I-177, I-177-A, AND I-177-B (PAGE 6)
Note E
The tubes listed below should not be tapped when testing for shorts because damage to the tube may result:
TABLE 2 (AND TABLE 3 WITH ADAPTER KIT MX-949/U PAGE-40)
---------------------------------------------------------
1A5GT 1LB4   1S4/VT-210 3A6GT/VT-149
1A7GT 1LD5   1S5/VT-172 3B7/1291-VT-182
1C5GT 1LE3   1T4/VT-173 3D6/1299-VT-185
1G4GT 1LH4/VT-177   1T5GT  3LF4
1G6GT 1LN5/VT-179  1U4  3Q4
1H5GT 1P5GT   1U5  3Q5GT
1L4 1Q5GT   3A4  3S4/VT-174
1LA4 1R5/VT-171  3A5  3V4
1LA6

I may take you up on that, prefer NOS.
I am having problems with the voltage settings, and not knowing if the Power supply tubes are in a good range for My TV-7, I did get #83 from Ernie, He got one for me at $5 and said it was good. but I won't know what its condition is, because of the voltage readings I am getting on the filament voltages settings.

Do you Have a Calibrated TV-7?

I am thinking of trying using the line adjust to get the correct filament voltages as a start.
I am in the process of seeing what percent of error by setting up a spreadsheet. I will then know if its a static error or
I have a space heater and it screws up the line voltage (same circuit as my test bench-but its just on the other side of the wall) It drops the voltage pretty bad from 120.6 down to 115.0, so every time it kicks on, my calibration goes south and I have to reset up the test or turn off the darn heater.

It says on one forum to set the line adjust to set the filaments to the correct value rather than the meter line set point. (which makes more sense to me, What do you think?)

I also read that if the meter bridge circuit is unbalanced then I wouldn't get the correct line set.
So I may have to tackle that, also the diodes could be failing (which I don't think so) but anything is possible. ( I just hope I didn't buy a DUD with a bad Transformer at the tune of $250 )
Well one step at a time.

Cliff,
I have mass 5Y3's if you still need one. Both NOS and used & tested.

Jean-Pierre Ethier wrote:

Hi all,
i have an old b&k model 607 tube tester  and i'm looking for the schematic for this unit  as it does'nt seem to be working properly  At least i should get some decent reading  using a new tube.
Thanks

Jp.

Click Here For similarities of the 607-667 B&K.

[url=https://s285.photobucket.com/user/anagrams/library/BK 607]Try this for Schematic[/url]

[url=https://s285.photobucket.com/user/anagrams/library/BK 607 667?sort=3&page=1][You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

Hi all,
i have an old b&k model 607 tube tester  and i'm looking for the schematic for this unit  as it does'nt seem to be working properly  At least i should get some decent reading  using a new tube.
Thanks

Jp.

I have been looking for a DC voltmeter with 1000 ohms per volt for a while, without luck. However My Friend Ernie has loaned me the use of His Westinghouse Voltmeter. Its a rare one to find but is in almost pristine condition.
It has a 260 degree movement, and has 8 ranges, 3-7.5-30-75-150-300-750 Vdc.
It has 3 scales 0-30, 0-75, 0-150
I don't know what the accuracy is but it would work.
It is a type PX-161 Westinghouse. If any one has the accuracy or a manual it would help, thanks.

This one looks similar but without the switch and is not the same ranges.



Now I can get to work on testing and if need be, calibrate the TV-7.
I am also going to follow up on using a digital multimeter with the same tests and note the differences for future reference. In case I can not get a good meter like this.

It seems there has been some progress  of replacing a #83 rectifier tube in the TV-177 Tube tester. Since its design and circuits are almost the same and using the same parts and power supply tubes, it would apply to the TV-7 Military tube tester series as well, in my opinion.

Here's a link to ARF Discussion. It has posted the schematic solid-state Tube replacements for both the #83 and 5Y3GTWA that you can build.
Click Here

And here's a good video on that, by demonstration.
You would be wise to store these both for future reference.

Heh- Heh I will just use tie-wraps as a temporary measure.

-------------

Now my next objective is to paint the case one color. Dove Grey, there are two shades of grey (or gray if you prefer). The case top cover is light gray and the bottom case is dark grey because someone painted over the lighter grey. Another item is keeping the large block lettering intact if I can. I did use a permanent heavy marker to fill in the missing black letters.

I may get a 1/2 pint of black enamel paint and use masking tape to form the letters, the only thing is the letter (D) and the letter (U). That will be a challenge!


One of the things on my bucket list is to take all of the Military documentations and organize them into one cohesive folder and actually do the pen and ink corrections. Now That will be a job.

Here's a list of the PDF Documents I have on my computer and forum topics from other forums:

click here english from Greek


Technical Manuals

 • TM 11-6625-274-12,  Operator's and Organizational Maintenance Manual, Test Sets, Electron Tube TV-7 / U, TV-7A / U, TV-7B / U, and TV-7D / U  Department of the Army, June 1960
---------------------

 •  TM 11-6625-274-35, Field and Depot Maintenance Manual, Test Sets, Electron Tube TV-7 / U, TV-7A / U, TV-7B / U, and TV-7D / U
 Department of the Army, 30 June 1960
 --------------------
 •  TM 11-6625-274-24P, Organizational, Direct Support and General Support Maintenance Repair Parts and Special Tools Lists for Test Sets, Electron Tube TV-7 / U, TV-7A / U, TV-7B / U, and TV-7D / U  Department of the Army, November 1979
--------------------

 •  TO 33AA21-5-32S-1, Operational Supplement, Technical Manual Field and Depot Maintenance, Electron Tube Test Sets TV-7 / U, TV-7A / U, TV-7B / U, and TV-7D / U ,  US Air Force, 20 September 1973
-------------------

 • TO 33AA21-5-32S-2, Tube Data Charts  Operational Supplement, Technical Manual Field and Depot Maintenance, Electron Tube Test Sets TV-7 / U, TV-7A / U, TV-7B / U, and TV-7D / U ,  US Air Force,  25 January 1978
 -------------------

 • TB 11-6625-274-12 / 1, or US Air Force, TO 33AA21-5-31,  Test Data for Electron Tube Test Sets TV-7 / U, TV-7A / U, TV-7B / U, and TV-7D / U  Department of the Army,  17 January 1962
 
 (This is the basic test data; all the rest are supplements to this list)
---------------------

 • TB 11-6625-274-12 / 1, Change No.1 - Test Data for Electron Tube Test Sets TV-7 / U, TV-7A / U, TV-7B / U, and TV-7D / U
 Department of the Army,   31 May 1962
----

 • TB 11-6625-274-12 / 1, Change No.3 - Test Data for Electron Tube Test Sets TV-7 / U, TV-7A / U, TV-7B / U, and TV-7D / U
 Department of the Army,   2 June 1966  This change supersedes C 1, 31 May 1962, and C 2, 31 January 1964
----

 • TO 33AA21-5-31C, Supplement Test Data for Electron Tube Test Sets TV-7 / U, TV-7A / U, TV-7B / U, and TV-7D / U
 US Air Force, 15 January 1965
----

 •  TO 33AA21-5-31E, Supplement Test Data for Electron Tube Test Sets TV-7 / U, TV-7A / U, TV-7B / U, and TV-7D / U
 US Air Force, 1 December 1965
----

 • TO 33AA21-5-31P, Supplement Test Data for Electron Tube Test Sets TV-7 / U, TV-7A / U, TV-7B / U, and TV-7D / U
 US Air Force, , 1 March 1975



 Most of these can be downloaded from here:
 http://bama.edebris.com/manuals/military/tv7/





[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

After I received my tester, I noticed one thing that I wanted to fix right off the bat. That HANDLE!
Of course I had already replaced the power cord.

Mine has one of the correct wire bails missing. Someone had substituted some heavy copper, plastic coated wire and fashioned it to the same form (rectangular) by using two complete turns and soldering the ends together. Of course being copper it was kind of malformed after repeated use.

So I decided to do a replacement. The sixty-four dollar question was, What would work and keep its shape and strength? First I thought of house wiring of 12 gauge. Then I remembered where I had seen some wire stock, it was at a Hobby store! So on one of my trips out of town I stopped by and picked up 3 pieces, one was 3 foot long and another 15 inch pair in a package.

I Removed the cobbled together piece with plier cutters. Then I took the remaining good one apart from the holder, and using it as a form. I used 1/8th brass rod, which worked out just right. I used a pair of pliers and my hand to form the 90 degree bends.

I thought maybe I could solder the ends together, which I attempted, but it didn't work out. So I found this picture I previously had found on the web. I just noticed the assembly as I figuring out how to write this topic tonight. The answer to keeping the wires from spreading apart and possibly damaging the case was before me. Look closely at the handle assembly! Well what do you know!
Two flat formed clips that wrap around the wires and keep them from spreading apart.

I will now get some flat brass or Stainless sheet and form it around the wire. It has/or will solve my dilemma.

PLets Start this topic, first with a video link to using a TV7.

Here's a link that may not stay very long. So Grab it whilst you can.

Click Here for booklet

Continuing- TV-7 notes I read one post in another forum said to be careful if you remove the Fuse Lamp, as the socket is hot and you can accidentally touch it to the faceplate and POOF, there goes your transformer. Some of the units have a rubber gasket in that hole for protection.

I did look at the bulb holder and it is adjustable, up and down, so the bulb won't sit high and avoids it getting hit by clumsiness or tools.

Do not substitute the bulb with anything other than an a TYPE #81.
The Shorts Neon bulb is a #NE-45.

Another thing to keep in mind is there is a GM chart that erroneously lists the last column as going to 60,000 it should be like the previous column 30,000 GM.

Here's a very good link for answering your questions on some things you may not know or refesh your memory. I recommend this highly.

Click Here for TV-7 info.

Well I did get a TV-7 that sat on my bench for almost 2-3 months. I just had too much on my plate with my Dads situation and such. I didn't have the mental strength to tackle just replacing the Power cord.
This afternoon I says to myself, it's too important to let it set there and whine for attention.
---------------
So around 1:30 I got up the courage and took my pruning shears and cut the danged old cord off.
Yea! step one.
--------------
I took off the power cord clamp in the case.
Step two.
-------------
Took out the tiny faceplate screws holding it to the case. Just about a gazillion of em
Step three
--------------
The power cord went under the power transformer, The white wire I found out sneaks up to the line adjust POT. I rasseled that wire off the terminal with a soldering Iron and a pair of Hemostats, then used some flush wire cutters to cut through the wrapped on wire. Did the same with the black wire, it was hooked up to the power switch.
Step four 
------------
Now what am I going to do with a green wire? Good question since the original didn't have a ground wire in the cord. Well I hunted for a lug and star washer. I soldered the lug connector to the ground wire, put one of the tiny screws through the faceplate and kind of hung the lug on the screw, set the star washer down on the screw hole and lowered the faceplate down gently, mated the screw-washer-lug and SUCCESS.
Step five
-------------
Replaced all the screws in there respective holes and went round and round till all screws were snugged down.
Step six
-----------
Plugged that puppy in and flipped on the power. OH my Gosh, surprised myself, Power light on and no sparks. Well I be darned, I says and pats myself on the back. only 1-1/2 hours.
Step seven
-------------
Adjusted the line POT to center of meter point. Right on.
Step eight
---------
My next project is to make a load for my Multimeters, to simulate a 1000 ohms per volt meter for testing that tube tester voltages and alignment, but that's for another day.

Dang it. Read the settings wrong. Tried a couple of other tubes and low readings too. Then I re-read the instructions for the TV-7 and guess what? I was reading the meter wrong.  
I was reading each mark as a one(1) rather than as a two(2).
However I ran into another snafu. As I was testing voltages, I got a low B+ reading at the pins.
Now when doing these test your supposed to use a 1000ohms/per-volt AC multimeter, which I don't have, drat! I remember something about simulation of that type of meter load, but forgot the design. Also it was recommended to me to check the testers internal tubes-#83 rectifier and 5Y3. So I am looking for NOs, but on the WEB they are sooooo expensive!!!!!!
So I will rewire the power cord in the meantime for a ground.
WHY OH WHY does this happen to MEEEEEEEE???????????  

Now I can test my HP 606 tubes even though HP recommends just replace the tube with a known substitute. Well until I test my hoard I wont know which ones are good.  
So my testing the ones in it, are a quicker solution in the short run. The reason I am doing that I pulled out of my hoard a 1LH4 and it had no response.

I'm sure you'll love the TV-7 Cliff. It's one of my better pieces of equipment I have at the moment. Though, mine needs to have the contacts on the push buttons cleaned a bit as I need to press down harder than normal to get my readings when using it. At least I hope that's all that's wrong with it.

Well Well, I am getting a TV-7 this Thursday. Only $250. top and bottom case halves are different colors, wired hinges and cobbled handle. It was seen by my Friend Ernie as being very clean inside and it works! So He will deliver it to Me. I trust Him as He is Experienced and a Fellow Ham.

I think when I get it I will start to test my tubes that are in my HP 606 sig. Gen.
The modulation meter only goes to 40% so it may be in the bridge section.

If I can get that job finished then I will move  back to troubleshooting the B&K tube tester. If I can get that one up and running then I may sell it. (I need the experience of troubleshooting first)