Egads! Wildcat!!
You can pick apart my answers...
The oscillator and antenna circuits are NOT connected together, what you see, that should be on the top of the tuning condenser is a short wire from the oscillator that should
not be connected but wrapped, about three turns around the antenna wire... This is a low capacity gimmick about 3pf to keep "birdies" out of the shortwave band...
If it has been disconnected and soldered remove it and fix. Use the same wire size/type, FWIR
#22 solid plastic covered with overbraid.. Twist around the open end about three turns, no more...
Easy-peasy to check an oscillator coil. First go blind to the band switch... Look at the coil on the schematic, identify the ends, don't bother with the taps, measure the ends it should be a complete circuit at low ohms. If n,t then find a tap from one end and measure at the band switch, repeat to find the open which generally will be a wire/joint from the switch.
On rare occasions and certain brands of radios, a celluloid layer insulates a primary from the secondary, the celluloid de-composes and corrodes the copper wire despite the enamel. That means a re-wind, really, not hard, just labor intensive, great work for a rainy day...
I think the 49k resistor is the problem as is that connected oscillator/antenna at the tuner...
That "leaky" bypass with a 400 ohm resistor is of not consequence, replace later, the 400 ohms has a far far greater effect...
Do not re-dress any of the under chassis hookup wiring, this can cause a problem once the gain of the radio is up...
I would like you to suffer through this radio, the learning curve will be gratifying and the hands-on knowledge will be beneficial...
Gotta a lot of outdoor work to do today. Try to catch-up tonight...
GL
Chas
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September 17th 2018, 7:41 am