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That company was based in southern California. I tried looking up the schematic with Universal Schematic Locator but nothing.
There is a model 59 but the tube count isn't the same So even though It's in Riders #3 Horn section page 3-3 its not correct.

Because of the age you really should change the caps. If you leave the old ones in even though they work, isn't a guarantee that the are safe.
Unless you want to short out your B+ and then the transformer. Just remember this, the line voltage was 110 its now 120-122 volts. The electrolytic in capacitors is over 83 years (as of today if not more). Its the chemicals and paper that degrade. Smoke is instantaneous when least expected . By the way putting in a fuse wouldn't hurt either. One in the power line Primary transformer side unless you don't mind just being a shelf queen.



Thats like buying an antique Car with the original tires still on the car. How many Miles can you travel with tires that are made with real rubber and fiber cords? Especially from 1934. Your out on the freeway going along at 65 MPH. Gee! I cant understand why one exploded! They were fine when I got on the freeway.
I'm not patronizing, just having a little forum fun.
I did notice a very shiny I.F. Transformer, that almost tells me it was not the original. So maybe the Caps were replaced Also.???

Friends,

Wanted to Buy:

Silver Marshall S-M 251 and S-M 256 audio "transformers"

S-M 256 audio coupler, terminals [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] to [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] must have continuity.

S-M 251 audio output coupler, terminals [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] to [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] and [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] to [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] must have
continuity.

They are not "standard" audio transformers that have a primary and secondary but contain a resistor, capacitor and a tapped inductor. The inductor must be viable for a functional repair.

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These are surface mount, tar potted black metal cans about 3" cubed, maybe taller, with a bold red "S-M" label on top with side numbered solder tab terminals.



Thanks!

Chas

There are a couple (well actually three different types)  of Multimeter's.
The first used meters were designed with a specific task in mind.
It was found that the range of a meter could be increased by adding switches and resistors and shunts and batteries.
There were several descriptions used to identify the use intended.
Voltmeter to measure voltage in the range of a few micro-volts to several thousand volts
Ohmmeter to measure 100ths of an ohm to Millions of Ohms
ammeter measurements on the order of picoamps to hundreds of amps (amp-meter is incorrect usage of the term.)

Then when radio started to develop there was a need to have test equipment that was more versatile.
So functions were combined to create a VOM (Volt-Ohm-Milliammeter)
So came the development of the following types:

[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]. Analog portable VOM
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]. Analog VTVM
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]. Digital VOM
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Then there are field units built for rugged use and then bench meters and Lab quality types.
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The first type has a mechanical meter movement to display numbers (analog style). When first introduced they had an input impedance ( or resistance) of 500 to 1000 ohms, they now can go up to the same as a digital. 10 or 11 meg-ohms.
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The second one came into existence because of the ever increasing need for a more accurate meter that wouldn't load down voltage readings.
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The third One uses computer chips and a digital screen to display numbers. They can have several functions built in. The Impedance input is usually 10-11 meg-ohms This is used to prevent loading the circuit under test.


The readings of a digital are more precise than an analog meter. An analog meter has a problem that is called parallax and is caused by reading the meter at an angle and therefore not getting correct readings. If there is anything else to add about Multimeter's, please feel free to post your thoughts and questions here. [You must be [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] and [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] to see this image.]