Silvertone model 6092 console stereo

This stereo belongs to a lady at work.  She bugged me for eons to "take a look at it" for her.  Silly me......

The filter cap can does not have anything that indicates the can would be negative, hence my question.  The filter cap can is mounted under the wheel for the FM tuner, not a terribly handy spot, so I'll have to mount replacement caps on a terminal strip.  There appears to be room to do that.  There appears to be 14 electrolytic caps in this chassis.  I'm not sure it needs them all replaced, but they look easy enough to do, and I want to learn something, so I'll replace them all.  The polarity is marked on all except the filter cap can, so that's a help.  

Thanks for your input.  Now I reckon I'll have to order some caps.

A note on "jumping filters".

If you jump a filter in place- that is to say not disconnected- it can sometimes "heal" the bad filter.
 I didn't believe this until it happened to me.

 So ALWAYS disconnect one terminal of the suspected bad filter, and THEN attach a known good one BEFORE applying the power. This way there is no chance of damaging components with the "surge" of a new cap being suddenly connected while the unit is powered on.
I learned this the hard way decades back when I was servicing full time.

 Also be sure to check the ESR of the capacitors. Yes, even new ones. I have tested new 'lytics, only to find they had dried up and had bad ESR. All 'lytics are not the same, quality wise.

Look for any "brown glue" holding the filter to the board and remove it. It can become conductive.

 On older units, if you smell "rotting fish" the capacitors have the bad formula electrolyte in them, and must be replaced. That electrolyte will corrode the circuit board.

I would say that a piece of equipment of that age (55 years+) would need the filter caps replaced whether it is solid state or tube type. While not necessarily leaky, the filter caps are likely to have lost capacitance and become inefficient in general. Hum is usually the result. The supply voltages may also be somewhat low as well. To check them out you could try bridging each suspect cap with a known good one and see what happens. Sometimes it is better to disconnect a lead one at a time from the can cap section in question and hooking in a substitute with clips leads for testing purposes. Regarding the connections, usually they are clearly marked on can caps. Almost all can caps have been common negative to the can but exceptions to this rule could occur. Check out the can and the circuit as best as you can to be on the safe side. If the transistors are mostly PNP types then positive may be the common ground connection from the power supply rather than negative as it would be for mostly NPN transistors.
73, Rod  WB6FBF

There are several model numbers that have the same chassis #.
Beitmans shows model 6092 as a tube set. Boy that's a fluke.
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models 6090A-6091-A6092A
In sears technical Manual Division 57
Radio Chassis # 548-10001
Part No. Lit.614 V1-BM95
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I haven't found that schematic, however just sticking to the stereo consoles that were transistors, all the power supply caps show negative to ground. are the metal can or axial poly caps? I would assume that if metal the shell is ground (-)

I've never worked on anything solid state to amount to anything, EVER.  I have this old stereo, circa 1965 that has a hum not controlled by the volume control.  If it were tube, I'd say it needed filter caps, and assume this is the case here.  The filter cap can has a 2000uf @20 volts, a 100uf @ 20 volts and a 1000uf @ 20 volts.  Would the can be negative on this like on a tube chassis?  And am I on the right track thinking the hum not controlled by the volume control would be a leaky filter cap?  The thing works fairly well, it just hums.  Thanks for your time.