Silvertone Model 1994 tombstone

Matt:
There are 2 types of mica capacitors:
 Paper mica and silver mica.

 The paper micas are by this time bad. The paper used for the dialectic was an acid based paper & it has deteriorated by now Especially Mica Mold Co. capacitors. Where we worked, we had a service asst. box of Mica mold caps NOS. They all tested good on 3 different cap testers, but all would not work in the set. New mica's solved the problem.

 The silver mica's MIGHT be OK, but may be having silver migration problems.

 I replace all mica caps with the new epoxy coated ones, even it they test OK.

 I spent a week fighting a H osc problem in a TV only to replace the mica caps & it worked. My co-worker spent 2 weeks fighting a tuner problem only to finally take my advice and replace the mica caps. It then worked.

 You might try ElektroTanya for the schematic. Be sure to check the box for English, unless you can read Hungarian. The schematics are free there and if it is not posted, you can post a "Wanted" for it.
Good site and they have many "Not Available" schematics there.

Its supposed to work that way. when you plug the radio in it would have a surge of current because the filaments are cold and have less resistance. And the power supply caps also draw some more current because they bleed off the voltage when the radio has set turned off for a while. As the filaments start to heat up the filaments increase in resistance and lower the inrush of current that causes the Dim bulb to go dimmer

Hi! I guess the main problem is my lack of understanding of power supplies. I think if I can get the power supply up I think I can get it going. I have it on a dim bulb on a variac and the bulb goes dim and stays dim. Comes up a little bit. Both electrolytics were wired positive side together. I thought those micas were pretty reliable.

      Thanx
                  Matt

Yes. That chassis was entirely recapped with all new resistors too. The only only exceptions I see are the original mica caps which are still in place. Sometimes you'll find substitutions in values used for replacements but if many of them are way off and don't make sense for the circuit involved then it may be time to try some more appropriate values. Then there is the matter of component location. With smaller parts today it can be tempting to install the new parts with shorter leads in mind rather than the original long ones. "Lead dress" can be important in some radios, less so in others. So what is the radio doing now when you hook it up to antenna and give it a try? Any of the bands seem to work? 
Rod WB6FBF
P.S. It is usually a good idea to check out all of the coils (including any transformers) in the radio with an Ohm Meter for open coils, shorts, etc.. 
Rod

Thats strange because those  are new resistors. Maybe the guy who installed them was colorblind. However if you've a good schematic then a lot of rewiring ahead.
I saw a couple of service manuals online but the prices are real shockers $100 plus.

Hi Y'all! Yeah I'm pretty sure this is the original Model 1994. I will load some pics. Main problem seems to be power supply and resistor values. I found schematics in Riders but resistor values are not close. I kinda was looking for a service manual. only option is to take all components out and rebuild according to riders schematic. Transformer and speaker coil are good. Please advise!!

There is a web site that you can type in the tube number and it will give you radios with that tube lineup.
Found it
https://grillecloth.com/sylvania/tubelist.php

If it has only 6 tubes it maybe model 1904. The reason I say that is sometimes the number is read wrong and the9 might have the same shaped letter but smudged or guessed.

Heres a list of models that have 8 tubes and one of them is the 6E5 eyetube.
sears model 1994 has these tubes 6A8MG 6K7MG 6Q7MG 6C5MG 6E5 6F6MG 6F6MG 5Z4MG

You might want to look and see if the schematics are one of these: Sears models 1942, 1944, 1972

A little bit more on Sears radio manufacturer's.
http://www.tuberadioland.com/silvertone4465_main.html

Ah Grasshopper,

 What you are unaware of is Sears changed all the model numbers at one point and failed to keep a record of what was what originally.  I found this out from a Sears tech.

 I ran into this problem 20+ years ago  and said some very nasty words.

So you can have a "newer" model radio with the same exact model number as an "old" one, but they are different.
 I suspect you have just encountered this problem.

I would suggest looking to see which company made the radio for Sears under contract. Likely it is one of their standard models. Possibly Wells Gardner, Pilot, Plant "A", RCA, Philco, Capeheart or ??

 You might have to spend time looking for similar schematics in Riders, unless you can find someone with a full set of OEM Sears service manuals. Start by looking for the same tube lineup.

Wells Gardner often stamped an "WG" in ink on the chassis. Also look in the cabinet for any similar markings.
 Hope this helps.

Are you sure its a real Silvertone? There are a lot of Overseas Lookalikes. Does it have Tubes? A Power Transformer?
Can you Post a Picture? Is it real solid wood? Or a plastic lookalike wood?
If it has tubes, what are the number of tubes? And can you provide the numbers on each of the tubes.
Am I correct in assuming that the schematic you have seen is in Riders Vol 8 Sears page 8-4 (PDF File page 1176 of total pages 1593?
Does it look like this?
https://www.radiomuseum.org/r/sears_roeb_silvertone_1984.html

I have a Model 1994 Silvertone 3 band tombstone that someone has hacked before I opened it up. The Riders schematic and the unit itself are not even close. Does anyone have a similar radio or a schematic I could eyeball? Cabinet is in excellent condition and I would really like to get this up and receiving. thanks, Matt