Warning for Beginners: Solder & Not Real Solder

FrankB wrote:

If you need a flux, liquid rosin or "No Corrode" soldering paste. The best flux is soluble in denatured alcohol, which I like to use to clean up after soldering. It gives you a chance to verify you have a good joint.

Although I retired from full time employment nearly a decade ago I still occasionally do a little work as a radio station contract engineer. I carry a small container of denatured alcohol and cotton swabs for cleaning off flux. Frank is dead on - removing the flux gives you a good look at the quality of your connection.

Dale H. Cook, Retired Chief Engineer, Roanoke/Lynchburg, VA
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Please do NOT use "Liquid Solder" to make connections with. It is NOT solder, nor a replacement for it.

 Use real solder and a soldering iron.

 It may seem like a "No brainer" but I have had to repair several items that "Liquid Solder" was used on as a repair.

I remember a kit that a customer brought back and complained "It didn't work" after he assembled it. Looking at it, I asked what the "junk" was on the pads and he said "Liquid Solder". .

I explained it was not real solder, and it would have to be cleaned off and real rosin solder used.

Whilst I am on the topic, do not use acid core solder, aka by some as "Plumbers solder or Radiator solder".

 Never use an acid core flux on electronics also, as it will corrode things up really bad. (And yes, I had another Darwin Award winner bring back a kit he soldered up with acid core solder and the PC board was really corroded and traces all eaten up in a short time).

If you need a flux, liquid rosin or "No Corrode" soldering paste. The best flux is soluble in denatured alcohol, which I like to use to clean up after soldering. It gives you a chance to verify you have a good joint.
 (Per a chemistry major I knew, Rubbing Alcohol contains some oil).

Now silver solder works really great, and makes a very strong joint, but takes a higher temperature to melt.

My favorite is a 63/37 rosin flux solder.  The old standby, 60/40 works too, but I have my own preferences in alloys and manufacturers. 

Now days one is supposed to use "Lead Free" solder. It has a lot of difficulties and is used in newer electronics, the biggest problem being it is seldom applied in a sufficient amount to make a good connection by the "Wave Soldering" methods. 
  I find it develops  "Ring Cracks" around parts and seems to be less flexible than lead/tin or silver solders.
 (My personal experiences with lead free solder is it's crap. Too many problems with it. Your experience may vary. Close cover before striking, and the check is in the mail).
 
 One major TV mfgr. had this problem on several different chassis. It was a "Cash Cow $$$" for me for several years. It would lose tuner grounds and also blow out the EEPROM, plus blow out the vertical IC at times.